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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1962
    Reference No: 5508
    Movement No: 28’998
    Case No: 763’548
    Model Name: Submariner, “Small Crown”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, endlinks stamped 64, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped "2,66"
    Dimensions: 37mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s reference 5508 “small crown” Submariner wristwatch came from a long line of non-crown guard dive watches, which are some of the most sought after timepieces today. The Submariner was released in 1953 with the model 6204 followed by other notables like the 6205, 6536/6538, 6536 and 6536/1. These competed with their contemporaries the “big crown” models 6200, 6538 and the 5510. By 1957, Rolex released the reference 5508, the last model featuring the "100m=330ft" depth and no crown guard configuration.

    The present example is exceptional with its contrasting polished and brushed finishes, clean sharp bevels and strong case proportions. The glossy black dial with gilt chapter ring and Mercedes hands are correct for a watch dating to 1962, as well as the calibrated bezel to 15 minutes. The Submariner dive watch is an icon in the world of horology and this example is a wonderful addition to any collection.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1089

Ref. 5508
An extremely fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with black “glossy” dial, sweep center seconds, no crown guards and bracelet

Circa 1962
37mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$235,000 - 390,000 
€26,800-44,400
$30,100-50,000

Sold for HK$375,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
[email protected]
+852 2318 2030

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: NINE

Hong Kong Auction 25-26 November 2019