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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1972
    Reference No: 1680, inside caseback stamped IV.70
    Movement No: D’974’018
    Case No: 2’825’789
    Model Name: Submariner "Red Sub"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped "9315", endlinks stamped "285", max length 205mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp, ‘Patent’ stamped "2,72"
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by two Rolex punched guarantee, product literature, green document holder, numbered sale tag, anchor, presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to feature a date function. Early examples displays a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name "Red Sub”, while later examples featured white graphics. Red Subs are today extremely sought-after timepieces in virtue of their aesthetic quirkiness and of their historical importance as the first Submariner examples with date. Even within the Red Submariner family of dials, one can notice an evolution of the graphics with six dials variations (Marks).

    The present lot features a Mark IV dial, recognizable from the feet first arrangement of the depth rating, The “Submariner” designation in Mark IV dial red lettering on the white paint, Mark IV dials can be found on examples from about 2.45M serial to 3M.

    The present "Red Sub" is made even more collectible and attractive by its excellent condition and further appeal is given by the "completeness" nature of this watch which is accompanied by its original punched guarantee, booklets, green document holder and presentation box.

  • Maker Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680, inside caseback stamped IV.70
A rare and very attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, guarantee and presentation box

勞力士,「Submariner, Red Sub」型號1680,罕有,精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶,備中心秒針、日期顯示,約1972年製。附原裝證書、錶盒、配件

Circa 1972
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$260,000 - 360,000 

Sold for HK$403,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi

Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031

[email protected]

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI

Hong Kong Auction 29 November 2020