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880

Rolex

Ref. 5512, case back stamped 5513

Submariner, “Meters First”

A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with sweep center seconds and bracelet

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An icon among icons — the Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 is always wearing a crown in the horological hall of fame. The idiosyncratic Oyster case, black rotating bezel, and iconic three-hand black dial design with perfectly balanced proportions is for many the singular most desirable wristwatch in the world. This present example from the 1967, with its matte dial and matching hands, clean case and crystal is an eye-popping example of a classic series.

The most remarkable point of the watch is, however, the luminous materials that were applied to the hour markers and hands. In 1964, Rolex began applying tritium luminous material on gilt dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”. The matte dial with a new generation of tritium luminous was introduced in 1967, in which the tritium signings include “T Swiss T<25” or “σ T-Swiss-T σ”. The present example, made with a matte dial in the transitional year, appears to have been applied with the tritium luminous material for gilt dial, ergo reacting strongly under UV light. It is also worth noting that the tritium signing is “Swiss – T<25”. Made in the transitional year, this piece exemplifies Rolex’s never-ending pursuit in perfecting their watches.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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