Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI Hong Kong Wednesday, May 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1995
    Reference No: 16520
    Movement No: 113’437
    Case No: W540’965; inside caseback stamped “16500”
    Model Name: Cosmograph Datyona, "Darth Vader"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 33 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78390”, endlinks stamped “503B”, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “W5”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Fung Leaung Kee Watch Co., Hong Kong dated 6th December 1995, instruction manual, product literature, 1995-1996 calendar card, hang tags, green card holder, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Released in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref.16520 was the firm’s first Daytona model to feature a self-winding caliber. As the brands first, the reliable Zenith El Primero based cal. 4030 was considered as one of the best self-winding chronograph movements at the time. Discontinued in 2000, it was replaced by the ref. 116520 featuring Rolex’s first in-house self-winding chronograph movement. Fitted with the last out-sourced caliber, the ref. 16520 commands a higher value today and is very popular among collectors and enthusiasts in the market.

    While the entire reference has appreciated in value over the years due to its iconic status being the last ever to feature an out-sourced movement, some examples from various series has proved to separate itself from the rest making them extremely rare and highly sought-after by collectors. In the manufacturing process of the dial, one of the factors contributing to the unique “tropical” effect is the varnish used at the time by Rolex, Zapon. Applied on top of the silvered registers, the varnish for some examples were not applied equally. In 2005, acclaimed Italian auctioneer noticed a difference in the colour of the register originally silver whilst putting together an auction and despite its natural imperfection, the watch was sold for double its estimate, hence examples bearing a S,N,T and W serial with “tropical” brown registers received the attention from collectors. However, usually witnessed with lighter shades of brown, a few examples that has surfaced in the market featured registers in much darker “espresso-like” hue earning its nickname the “Darth Vader”.

    The present example is one of those rare birds that has developed a dark and intense espresso-like tropical registers. Bearing a “W” serial, the present example from circa 1995 is offered in excellent overall condition and is further complete with its full set of accessories with a guarantee stamped by a local Hong Kong retailer.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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875

Ref. 16520
A very fine, attractive and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” registers, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1995
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$400,000 - 800,000 
€46,700-93,400
$51,300-103,000

Sold for HK$635,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2023