Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII Hong Kong Saturday, June 5, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1988
    Reference No: 168000
    Movement No: 2’024’512
    Case No: R595’849
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “593”, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “L2, 93150”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 1988 and stamped by Hong Kong retailer Geneva Watch Co. Kowloon, green wallet, 1987-1988 calendar card, hangtag, instruction manual, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    With one of the shortest production span for only about 9 months between 1988-1989, the reference 168000 is a true rarity among the Submariner family. Inherently, much like its sibling ref. 16800, the “Triple zero” embodies the genes of both world of vintage charm and the robustness of modernity. The extra “0” was added to mark the introduction of the use of a new stainless steel metal alloy 904L instead of the 316L from previous models. What’s peculiar about the reference is that it was never an “official” model, the presence of the numbers 168000 can only be found between the lugs of the case, and was the internal identification for Rolex to keep track of the difference in case metal. Furthermore, the inner case back and guarantee would remain with 16800 without the extra “0”.

    The present example bearing a R serial with matching parts and accessories is offered in excellent condition. Highly appealing with vintage charm and luminous plots that have ages into a custard patina, this 168000 is truly special and is a great addition to any vintage collection for connoisseurs who appreciates true rarity.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 168000
A rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1988
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$38,000 - 62,000 

Sold for HK$94,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII

Hong Kong Auctions 5-6 June 2021