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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1970
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D422’679
    Case No: 2’241’481, inside caseback stamped III.69
    Model Name: Submariner, “Red Sub, MKII”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “280”, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “W2”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Released in 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 was the first ever model to feature a date function. Regarded as one of the most celebrated Submariner references, early examples featured a ‘meters first’ depth rating with ‘Submariner’ printed in red, hence earning its nickname the “Red Sub”. Produced for a relatively short period of time, Rolex replaced the red writing with their traditional all white texts and graphics for later examples of the reference.

    Although the Red Subs were scarcely produced with case serials ranging from 2.07 million to 4 million, a total of six marks were featured in the reference, each with its own distinctive traits. The present example bearing a Mark II dial with a corresponding 2.24 million case serial features Red ‘Submariner’ lettering printed over white, with open “6’s” and an elongated “F” for feet. Presented in attractive overall condition, the present example is charmed with a dial in excellent overall condition with evenly aged luminous materials on the indexes and hands that have developed a buttery hue over the years, giving the present timepiece and exemplified vintage appeal. Furthermore, the present ref. 1680 still has its original well-preserved crystal with Cyclops intact.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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910

Ref. 1680
A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK II dial and bracelet

Circa 1970
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$115,000 - 195,000 
€12,100-20,500
$14,700-25,000

Sold for HK$277,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
[email protected]

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII

Hong Kong Auctions 5-6 June 2021