Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1974 Reference No: 1680 Movement No: D’718’594 Case No: 3’583’122 Model Name: Submariner Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Automatic, cal.1570, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185 mm Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp Dimensions: 40mm diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The reputation of Rolex shifted gradually from professional watches to status symbols towards the latter half of 20th century. This trend is none more evident than when Rolex introduced the first gold Submariner model, the 1680/8 offered here, in 1969. The flamboyant gold case, goes completely against the professional diver’s image of the Submariner, and marks a new era for Rolex.
The highlight of a 1680/8 is in the dial which, over time and in perfect environment, turns from its original sunburst blue to shades of purple which is visually good looking giving it a ‘tropical shade’ effect on the dial that aged graciously into an unusual shade of maroon, which together with the hefty yellow gold case and bracelet exudes a tangible sense of luxury. Additionally, the so called “nipple dial” with its “feet first” depth rating and wonderfully patinated tritium lume are iconic features that can no longer be found in modern Rolex production.
The superb condition of this present lot, is in overall excellent condition and it’s a extravagant version of the iconic Submariner.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
