A fine and rare yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet

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  • Condition Report

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1983
    Reference No: 16808, inside caseback stamped 16800
    Movement No: 1’117’115
    Case No: 8’100’056
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 175mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “C”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1979, Rolex introduced the ref. 16800 replacing its former ref. 1680 featuring for the first time a sapphire crystal. Launched at the same time was its gold counterpart ref. 16808 replacing its former ref. 1680/8. With most of its aesthetics very similar to its previous model, a few upgrades separated the old and new. Updated with the new cal. 3035, the ref. 16808 featured a quickset date adjusted via the crown. Furthermore, incorporating a new unidirectional bezel rotating only counter-clockwise, the upgraded feature provides an enhanced security. The model was available with a black dial with black bezel insert or a blue dial with a blue bezel insert. The reference was discontinued in 1987 for gold models whilst stainless steel examples were discontinued in the following year.

    The present example with a black dial is preserved in attractive overall condition and bears an 8.1 million case number indicating it as an example from circa 1983. Fitted with an attractive dial, the present example is a nice transitional example of a vintage gold Submariner with modern upgrades.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 16808, inside caseback stamped 16800
A fine and rare yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet

勞力士,「Submariner」型號16808,精細罕有,18K黃金自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,備中心秒針、日期顯示,約1983年製

Circa 1983
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$155,000 - 235,000 
€17,800-26,900
$19,900-30,100

sold for HK$187,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi

Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031

WatchesHK@phillips.com

 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X

Hong Kong Auction 10 July 2020