An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “Floating Cosmograph” white porcelain dial and bracelet

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  • Condition Report

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1989
    Reference No: 16528, inside caseback stamped 16500
    Case No: R983’930
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona, Porcelain “Floating Cosmograph”
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped “103”, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “P2”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Initially introduced in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16500 models mark a new era for the coveted Daytona. With a newly designed case featuring crown guards and more importantly a new self-winding caliber 4030 with a Zenith El Primero base, it is believed that Rolex had performed over 200 rigorous modifications and upgrades to reach their own extremely high standards. Referenced the 16520 for examples in stainless steel and 16528 for examples in 18K yellow gold.

    The present example Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16528 features an extremely rare and highly desired “Mark I” “Floating Cosmograph” white porcelain dial. Extremely scarcely produced for only less than one year from the second half of 1988 to the first half of 1989, only examples bearing an “R” serial can be fitted with a “Floating Cosmograph” white porcelain dial. Extremely delicate, Rolex decided to replace the porcelain material of the dial to its regular material used witnessed in other ref. 16528 with a later serial than “R”. Furthermore, early examples of the reference featured an inverted “6” on the 12-Hour register at 6 O’clock.

    Extremely sought after today due to its ever growing cult-like following of the Rolex Daytona, the ref. 16528 is considered a grail in the market today commanding and achieving record results at auction. The present example from circa 1989 boasts an attractive case with well-defined lugs retaining its desired sharp edges and bevels. Furthermore, it features the correct 200 unit bezel and is similarly well-preserved. Rare, sought after and iconic, the present example is a great opportunity for lovers and collectors of the beloved Daytona to acquire an extremely rare and early example of the reference.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 16528, inside caseback stamped 16500
An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “Floating Cosmograph” white porcelain dial and bracelet

勞力士,「Porcelain Cosmograph Daytona」型號16528,極度罕有,18K黃金自動計時鏈帶腕錶,備「Porcelain Floating Cosmograph」瓷面錶盤,約1989年製

Circa 1989
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$545,000 - 1,090,000 
€61,900-124,000
$69,900-140,000

sold for HK$625,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi

Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031

WatchesHK@phillips.com

 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X

Hong Kong Auction 10 July 2020