Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FOUR Hong Kong Monday, May 29, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1957
    Reference No: 228
    Material: Platinum and diamonds
    Calibre: Mechanical, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum and diamond-set bracelet, 150 mm. maximum length
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 13.5 mm. wide
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a platinum and diamond-set lady's bracelet watch, please see The Best of Time by James Dowling and Jeffrey Hess, page 297.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex introduced lavish jeweled lady's watches in the 1950s to cater to the tastes and whims of the post-war period. Cased in platinum, many examples were made with luxurious and imaginative designs, featuring hinged covers and jeweled bracelets. During this period, Rolex supplied the movements and cases, and the jewel work was contracted to a specialist.

    At the time of production, the prices of these creations were astounding - research shows that they retailed for five times the price of a platinum and diamond Day-Date, attesting to their quality and craftsmanship. Most pieces were entirely handmade, and produced upon custom order. As such, every jeweled Rolex ladies creation during this period is most probably unique. The fact is supported by advertising from the period, which proudly states, "Rolex watch creations such as these are personally exclusive - only one of each design is made. Your Rolex jeweler will obtain full details for you".

    This example, cased in platinum, is lavishly encrusted with brilliant and baguette diamonds throughout the case. It is furthermore fitted with a hinged cover that curves in a creative and opulent fashion to reveal the dial beneath. The dial, movement and case are all most notably signed by Rolex. No doubt made for someone of great style and taste, the present watch will sure to delight the 21st century woman with its flamboyant and glamorous style.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 228
A lady's highly attractive and probably unique platinum and diamond-set bracelet watch with concealed dial

Circa 1957
13.5 mm. wide
Case, dial and movement signed

HK$200,000 - 300,000 

Sold for HK$200,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

Ziyong Ho
+852 9386 2032

Jill Chen
+852 2318 2033

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FOUR

Hong Kong Auction 30 May 2017