A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1958
    Reference No: 5508, inside case back stamped III.1958
    Movement No: 30'208
    Case No: 399'755
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 1530, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 7206, 186 mm. maximum length
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 38 mm. diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a reference 5508, please see Collecting Modern and Vintage Wristwatches Volume I by Oswaldo Patrizzi, page 352.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The present Submariner reference 5508 was manufactured in 1958, which is the first year this reference was introduced. It is a highly desirable and charismatic example, fitted with a correct black lacquer 'Swiss' dial with gilt signature and upgraded depth rating printed in white on the surface of the dial. The hands and lumes have aged to a warm and beautiful orange tone consistently together. The insert features the upgraded calibration to 15 minutes from its predecessor reference 6536/1 and is nicely faded giving the watch great character.

    The case has sharp beveled edges and the numbers between the lugs are clearly readable, making this example very sought after today.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 5508, inside case back stamped III.1958
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet

勞力士,精細及罕有,不銹鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針及黑色漆錶盤,“Submariner”,型號5508,1958年製

1958
38 mm. diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 180,000 

sold for HK$150,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016