Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1983
    Reference No: 18188
    Movement No: 0'834'103
    Case No: 7’651’865
    Model Name: Day-Date "Rainbow"
    Material: 18K yellow gold and sapphires
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold and diamond-set Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market. It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations. Considered to be the most prestigious and one of the most recognisable models from Rolex, the Day-Date model has adorned the wrists of presidents and dignitaries around the world. Exuding what can be defined as a sporty elegant attire, the model has been appreciated over the last six decades of its production thanks to its versatility, robustness, and elegance.

    The present watch, previously unknown to the auction market, is an incredibly rare Day-Date. It is most notably adorned with a beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel's beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex's technical superiority and eye for color. The dial also displays gemstones in a rainbow hue, referencing the colors of the bezel. Complementing the case is a stunning President bracelet with diamond-set center links.

    Most interestingly, the watch has a reference number that is shared with the "Harlequin" Day-Date - one set with alternating diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, like the main colours of the comic character. It is entirely possible, given the early year of production, that this timepiece was made during a period when Rolex was still testing bezels and had not made a specific reference yet for the Rainbow bezel - most commonly found on the reference 18059 or 18058.

    The present model is the direct inspiration behind the beloved Daytona and Day-Date Rainbow models of modern times, providing an extremely interesting historical aspect to watch scholarship.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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234

Ref. 18188
An extremely rare, spectacular and important yellow gold and multi-colored sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet

Circa 1983
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF250,000 - 500,000 
€266,000-532,000
$291,000-581,000

Sold for CHF571,500

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024