Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 5517 inside caseback stamped 5'339'749
    Case No: 5'339'749
    Model Name: Military Submariner "Milsub"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: NATO
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel buckle
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed, outside caseback with Military Number 0552/923-7697 835/78
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee dated December 13, 2007, photos, Royal Navy Diver's Log and Diver Certificate of CPO B W McNeil.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In the 1970s, the British Ministry of Defense (MOD) commissioned Rolex for a watch with specific military specifications to be worn by its officers. Their requirements included fixed spring bars welded to the lugs which prevented the fitting of a reflective bracelet, a nylon strap (by contract from the Phoenix company), a 60-minute bezel insert, large sword-shaped hands, and a luminous dial. In addition, the MOD required that dials be marked with an encircled “T” indicating the use of luminescent tritium.

    Three references were assigned to the Military Submariner - the reference 5513, 5513/5517 and 5517. While the reference 5513 was a modified version of the existing Submariner model, the reference 5517 was specifically created for military use and was not commercially available. As such, the reference 5517 (such as the present watch) is the most sought-after variant of the three existing models. The present watch is fitted with a "Maxi" dial which is correct.

    Another noticeable difference between the military and civilian models are their case back engravings – the present lot marked with the "0552" code for British Royal Navy, "923-7697", the NATO code, followed by the issue number. The inside case back on this watch is repeated with the serial number, which is correct for a special order watch.
    Yet, the present watch represents more than just a well-preserved military submariner – it is a story about two extra-ordinary Rolex Military Submariners reference 5517s who have crossed paths during its almost half a century lifespan.

    It is common knowledge that the British Special Air Service (SAS) , on return from military covert missions, submitted their Rolex military Submariners to be returned to the stock room and then serviced and ready for the next mission. It also has been rumoured that during these routine services, case backs through lack of care and attention were interchanged due to the fact that they look very similar - the appearance of the present watch is proof that this really did occur.

    The two watches in question are the following, both previously sold at the same auction house, within the same year:
    1) Rolex Military Submariner ref 5517 serial number 5339667, the case back with engraving Issue number 835/78 and inside case number 5339749 with Maxi dial
    2) Rolex Military Submariner ref 5517 serial number 5339749, and case back engraving polished off but with intact inside caseback number 5339667 with Maxi dial.

    Both watches were recently purchased by the current consignor, who subsequently reunited both correct cases and inside casebacks. Today, we offer the Rolex Military Submariner ref 5517 serial number 5339749 with the correct re-united case back. The consigner has also added an original military 60-minute bezel insert, a NOS Military Maxi dial and has had the original military sword hands professionally re lumed with original tritium of the period to match the dial and to bring the timepiece back to how it should be to its original glory.

    The present watch is accompanied by a period Dive Log, as well as images and his Diving Instructor Certificate, providing historical insight but please note they are not associated to the watch but with the other Rolex Military Submariner ref 5517 serial 5339667.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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189

Ref. 5517 inside caseback stamped 5'339'749
An extremely rare and well-preserved stainless steel military wristwatch made for the British Royal Navy

Circa 1978
39mm Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed, outside caseback with Military Number 0552/923-7697 835/78

Estimate
CHF100,000 - 200,000 
€107,000-213,000
$115,000-231,000

Sold for CHF107,950

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024