Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1958
    Reference No: 6541
    Movement No: N726507
    Case No: 412'479
    Model Name: Milgauss
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1055, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped 1.58
    Dimensions: 38mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated 1966 stamped Mexico and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The present watch is representative of one of the unarguably scarcest and most sought-after Rolex models to ever grace the market. Released in 1956, reference 6541 targeted at a very specific - albeit at the time novel and growing - market: scientists, engineers and technicians working with high magnetic fields in electro-industrial environments or scientific facilities; indeed its iconic “lightning” seconds hand is an obvious nod to electromagnetism.

    Most impressively, the Milgauss was guaranteed to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss. The name Milgauss is derived from the Latin word mille, which means 1,000, and gauss, the unit of a magnetic field. The Milgauss overcomes the effects of magnetic fields by using anti-magnetic alloys and an iron movement cover to create a Faraday cage.

    It might well be one of the scarcest Rolex models as the intended market was indeed extremely restricted. Anecdotal evidence suggests that Rolex would not first produce the watches and then ship them to retailers, but rather the other way around: given demand for the watch was so low, Rolex would wait for retailers to place an appropriate amount of orders, and then would go on and produce the batch - this completely makes sense, given the guarantee for the present watch is dated to 1966 in Mexico.

    The present example, with caseback stamped IV.1958 indicating it was produced in the fourth quarter of 1958, displays an outstanding dark chocolate tropicalisation. Furthermore, even the few ultra-small oxidation dots that occurred over the years have somehow tropicalised and, instead of being dark as it usually happen, they sport a metallic coppery finish granting the dial, when viewed under the loupe, a hardly ever seen “copper stardust” effect. Its case number is consistent with other examples of the reference, as most appear to bear a 412’xxx serial number. Other correct details included the Faraday cage, and original bracelet stamped for 1958.

    Originally offered on behalf of the original owner at auction (it was a gift from the father of the seller), the present watch appears for the second time at auction and is complete with its Rolex Guarantee dated 1966 stamped Mexico and presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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154

Ref. 6541
An extremely rare, well-preserved and important amagnetic wristwatch with "lightning" center seconds, "no lumes" espresso tropical honeycomb dial, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1958
38mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF80,000 - 160,000 
€85,100-170,000
$93,000-186,000

Sold for CHF88,900

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024