Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1977
    Reference No: 1601
    Case No: 5'049'771
    Model Name: Datejust
    Material: Stainless steel and red jasper
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex released its very first Datejust, reference 4467, in 1945 to celebrate the firm’s 40th anniversary. Fitted with a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the watch featured an Oyster case, ‘Bubble Back’ movement and ‘coin edge’ bezel. At the time of production, the Datejust was the world’s first automatic chronometer wristwatch to display the date on the dial. The reference 1601, which was a later iteration of the original Datejust, was launched in 1959, and was made in a variety of metals, including stainless steel, two-tone, and gold, with fluted bezels and various case and bracelet options.

    In exceptional condition, the present example showcases an uber rare red jasper dial - arguably one of the most collectible of all the stone dials ever made. While most jasper dials are typically green, the brownish-red hue of this dial beautifully complements the stark stainless steel case. Given the precious nature of jasper, it is very rare that the present watch is cased in stainless steel, making this dial/case combination much rarer than its precious metal counterparts.

    The timepiece itself is preserved in impressive condition, with incredibly sharp finishes to the top of the lugs and crisp numbers between the lugs. The dial itself is intact, and does not display any cracks. As no hard stone dial is alike, each dial is slightly different, giving the watch lots of character. In this instance, there are flecks throughout the rich red colour, giving much depth to the dial.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1601
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, red jasper dial and bracelet

Circa 1977
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF50,000 - 100,000 
€53,200-106,000
$58,100-116,000

Sold for CHF88,900

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024