A very attractive and incredibly rare stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet and "double Swiss exclamation mark" dial

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1962
    Reference No: 5500 inside case back stamped IV.62
    Movement No: 29'450
    Case No: 845'555
    Model Name: Explorer
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped stamped 57, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.64
    Dimensions: 34mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, dial further signed Joyeria Riviera

  • Catalogue Essay

    Explorer watches were produced to withstand the perils of alpine expeditions and the elements. The present model is a crossover between the 'Air King' and 'Explorer' models, evidenced by the famous '3-6-9' numerals. Reference 5500 was fitted with either a 'Precision' or 'Super Precison' dial, unlike references 1016 and 6610, which featured a 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified' dial.

    This particular reference 5500 is fitted with a beautiful gilt dial, and bears the historical Joyeria Riviera signature at 6 o'clock.

    The watch features a number of peculiarities that separate it from the ordinary. It most notably displays both a "Swiss Made" designation, as a well as a "Swiss" signature at 6 o'clock. While one is printed in gilt, the other is printed similar in nature to the retailer's signature. Furthermore, there is an "exclamation mark" at 6 o'clock, believed to signify a lower amount of radium used for the luminous material. By this time, Rolex had realized the health hazards of using radium on their dials, and gradually transitioned to tritium - this feature is correct for the serial number of the timepiece.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 5500 inside case back stamped IV.62
A very attractive and incredibly rare stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet and "double Swiss exclamation mark" dial

1962
34mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, dial further signed Joyeria Riviera

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000 
€18,300-36,600
$20,100-40,200

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Specialist, Head of Sale
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

Double Signed: A Celebration of the Finest Partnerships Between Manufacturers and Retailers

Geneva Auction 9 November 2019