Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XII Geneva Saturday, November 7, 2020 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1991
    Reference No: 16528
    Case No: X'758'166
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona
    Material: 18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 78398
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex fitted box, outer packaging and service papers dated 2017

  • Catalogue Essay

    There is a je ne sais quoi with bejeweled Rolex wristwatches that makes the pulse of collectors beat faster. Is it the mix of a sporty case with delicate jewels or the sheer elegance, sophistication and glamour of the ensemble, or all of the above and much more?

    The present reference 16528 with its beautiful pave dial with ruby indexes exudes finesse like no other. Bejeweled Rolex Daytonas have been known since the 80s, when Rolex first experimented with an extremely limited number of manually-wound bejeweled pieces - references 6269 and 6270.

    With the advent of the 90s and the introduction of the automatic Daytona, the marque evolved toward innovative and more exotic designs and once again created - in extremely limited quantities - gem set models like the present ref 16528.

    Subsidiary counters, which are usually golden on pavée dials, are in this instance silvered. The reason for this is that the owner of this watch requested and obtained a dial upgrade for his 16528. As it turns out, dials mounted at a later time by Rolex feature silver subdials rather than golden. However, the silver actually gives the dial a more balanced appearance, fitting beautifully with the diamonds with a touch of flamboyance thanks to the red of the rubies.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16528
A very fine, rare and extremely attractive yellow gold, diamond and ruby-set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, box and service guarantee card

Circa 1991
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF35,000 - 70,000 

Sold for CHF52,920

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

41 79 637 1724

The Geneva Watch Auction: XII

Geneva Auction 6 - 7 November 2020