An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with sweep center seconds and black lacquer "double T < 25 underline" dial

Create your first list.

A way to share and manage lots.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1964
    Reference No: 5513, inside cased back stamped III.64
    Case No: 1'182'132
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in approximately 1962, reference 5513, along with reference 5512, was the first Submariner model to be fitted with crown guards. Its predecessors such as reference 5508 or 6536/1 all featured a small crown, which Rolex deemed too delicate for a robust tool watch.

    Those with gilt dials are particularly sough after by collectors. Produced until approximately 1967, they impress with their glossy finish and recessed text which catches the light beautifully.

    Two seemingly subtle details truly set this watch apart: The first is the underline below the Submariner signature, which collectors and historians hypothesize as signifying Rolex's use of tritium on the dial. The underline is absolutely correct when one considers the serial number. Still featuring robust proportions, the present watch is unmistakably original and well preserved, separating itself from the quotidian.

    The second is the double "T < 25" designation in addition to the Swiss signature at 6 o'clock. This designation is most notably seen on Explorer "3-6-9" reference 5513 dials. To find one fitted with a watch featuring luminous plots is quite extraordinary. The dial most likely started its life in the earliest stages of reference 5513's production. Having remained in the manufacture's stock, it can be concluded that Rolex added the underline and "double T <25" when the firm applied tritium on top of the existing original luminous material, due to changes in watch regulation. The watch was then assembled in 1964.

    Most interestingly, watches fitted with reference 5513 "3-6-9" dials are usually found, as originally delivered, to the United Kingdom. It thus comes as no surprise, that the present watch also bears London watchmaker repair marks in the inside case back. Very fitting, as this example bears the same double "T<25" dial designation as the Explorer dial Submariner.

    According to our research, the present watch is the only reference 5513 known to bear this dial configuration, enhancing its utter rarity.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

177

Rolex

Ref. 5513, inside cased back stamped III.64
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with sweep center seconds and black lacquer "double T < 25 underline" dial

Circa 1964
39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 80,000 
€35,200-70,400
$41,000-81,900

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018