Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: SIX Geneva Friday, November 10, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1972
    Reference No: 1680 inside caseback stamped III.71
    Movement No: D'295'847
    Case No: 3'184'293
    Model Name: "Red" Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel extendable Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 380, max length 225mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex twinlock folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39.5mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated 6 November 1974, service guarantees dated 1993, 2002 and 2006, product literature, wallet and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a "meters first" depth rating, with the "Submariner" script printed in red, hence the name "Red Submariner".

    The present example is fitted with a Mark 5 dial, displaying "feet first" as opposed to "meters first". The 6 is "open", and the red "Submariner" text is directly printed on the dial. All these attributes are correct for the 3.184 million serial number.

    Of note is the "Pateted" inscription inside the extendable link. Research shows that Rolex had released a batch of bracelets with this typo, which in a twist of fate, have become collectible today.

    Consigned by the son of its original owner, this watch is as "complete" as one can be. It is accompanied by its original punched guarantee stating the watch was sold on 6 December 1974 in Spain. Furthermore, the owner has dutifully serviced the watch three times, having kept the service guarantee in 1993, 2002 and 2006. It is also offered with its original product literature, wallet and fitted presentation box.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680 inside caseback stamped III.71
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with centre seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and fitted presentation box

Circa 1972
39.5mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF10,000 - 15,000 

Sold for CHF23,750

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: SIX

Geneva Auctions 11 - 12 November 2017