Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII Geneva Saturday, May 13, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1999
    Reference No: 16528
    Movement No: 170'510
    Case No: U486209
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona
    Material: 18K yellow gold and diamonds
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated June 29, 1999 and stamped Asprey & Garrard Ltd.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The modern Daytona was a breakthrough and a first in many aspects. When launched in 1988, it was not only the first time Rolex used an automatic caliber for the Daytona, it was also the first time that Rolex used an ebauche supplied by a third party for one of its automatic movements. Caliber 4030 was based on a heavily modified Zenith El-Primero movement. Fitted with a sapphire crystal for the first time, the Daytona’s case size was increased to 40 millimeters to house the new movement.

    The present reference 16528 is one of the most important yellow gold automatic Daytonas to ever appear on the market; consisting of a ritzy yellow gold case bearing Asprey & Garrard, it most notably displays a superb sunburst purple dial with diamond-set indexes never seen before on the auction market.

    It is our belief that this purple dial was created by Rolex. It was never officially mounted on reference 16528, but gifted by Rolex to its closest retailers, finding its way on the present lot for a spectacular result. It is possible that it was it fitted on the present watch by Asprey & Garrard (today known as Asprey) for one of their most special and distinguished clients, most probably with the initials Y.J. on 27 May 99 as seen on the engraving on the case back. Indeed, this hypothesis would completely make sense as purple is the signature colour of the Asprey brand.

    Founded in 1781 by William Asprey, Asprey has retailed some of the most surprising and unusual Rolex watches of the 20th century. The retailer has been especially known for their glamorous clientele, ranging from the Omani royal family (Asprey held the Sultan’s exclusive Royal Warrant), to celebrities and cultural personalities alike. This is compounded by the fact that Rolex hardly ever grants special orders, especially towards the latter half of the 20th century as the brand became more corporate and standardised. As such, the present timepiece is a reflection of the retailer's prestige and exclusivity in the eyes of Rolex.

    Not only is the look of this watch perfectly theatrical, it is offered in spectacular condition with its original guarantee. It is without a doubt one of the rarest and exclusive Daytonas ever created and a crown jewel for the discerning Daytona collector.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16528
An attractive, important and possibly unique yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with purple dial and diamond indexes, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box, retailed by Asprey

Circa 1999
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF200,000 - 400,000 
€208,000-416,000
$228,000-457,000

Sold for CHF355,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII

Geneva Auction 13 - 14 May 2023