Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII Geneva Saturday, May 13, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1988
    Reference No: 16528
    Movement No: 15'848
    Case No: R985192
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona "Floating"
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated June 07, 1989, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s first automatic Daytona was introduced in 1988. Housing the iconic Zenith-based caliber 4030, it featured a larger case and was fitted with a sapphire crystal. The watch immediately became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. The gold version reference 16528 was a luxurious alternative to its stainless steel counterpart reference 16520.

    First generation examples like the present watch displayed “Cosmograph” floating below “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. This variant is known as the “floating dial”. During the model’s initial production years, the dials were made with white lacquer. However, most probably due to cost of creating such dials, very few were made. A “tell-tale” sign of ‘porcelain dials’ is the three-dimensional appearance of the black graphics and slightly off-white color of the background.

    One of the most impressive examples of its kind to appear on the auction market, this timepiece is fitted with an original early bezel, which is calibrated to 200 units. Preserved in most probably unpolished condition, the watch displays all its original factory finishes, from the bevel on the bezel to deep and untouched hallmarks. The bracelet exhibits a beautiful copper-like patina, adding an undisputed layer of charm to the timepiece. Furthermore, it retains all its original accessories, such as the punched guarantee.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16528
A rare and most probably unpolished yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with so-called "porcelain" dial displaying "floating" logo, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1988
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF80,000 - 160,000 
€83,300-167,000
$91,400-183,000

Sold for CHF127,000

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII

Geneva Auction 13 - 14 May 2023