Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XV Geneva Saturday, May 7, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1963
    Reference No: 1601
    Movement No: 52'155
    Case No: 926'223
    Model Name: Datejust
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex released its very first Datejust, reference 4467, in 1945 to celebrate the firm’s 40th anniversary. Fitted with a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the watch featured an Oyster case, ‘Bubble Back’ movement and ‘coin edge’ bezel. At the time of production, the DateJust was the world’s first automatic chronometer wristwatch to display the date on the dial. The Datejust model is predominantly cased in stainless steel and gold. Among different kinds of gold metals, white metal Datejusts are much rarer than their yellow gold counterparts.

    The present watch, reference 1601 which continues the linage of the model is completely understated and elegant. It features a rich black lacquer dial that that has turned "tropical" over time and displays a rich brown hue that is singular in appearance. Displaying incredible charisma and character, the dial has aged gracefully over time. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1601
A highly rare and very attractive white gold wristwatch with center seconds and "tropical" dial

1963
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF15,000 - 25,000 
€14,700-24,600
$15,900-26,500

Sold for CHF25,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 22 317 96 63
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XV

Geneva Auction 7 - 8 May 2022