A very fine and rare stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with date, black glossy dial, exclamation mark, pointed crown guard, bracelet and box

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1963
    Reference No: 1675 inside caseback further stamped 1.63
    Movement No: 83'832
    Case No: 875'554
    Model Name: GMT-Master
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, endlinks stamped 555, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex USA deployant buckle
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by additional butterfly rotor and original box

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1954, Rolex launched one of its most iconic models: the GMT-Master. The timepiece was initially developed in collaboration with Pan American Airlines as to enable their pilots to simultaneously keep track of two time zones when flying from one location to another. Fitted with an extremely fragile Bakelite bezel, reference 6542 was replaced in 1959 by reference 1675 fitted with a more robust metallic insert.

    In addition to the new metallic bezel insert, the case design was reinforced by crown guards. The very first examples of this reference were fitted, like the present watch, with pointed crown guards. The dial remains the extremely attractive black glossy dial until 1966 when matte dials were introduced on the reference.

    In the early 60s, the use of radium was progressively banned and watchmakers had to find a way to differentiate watches with lower radiation level. Several signs were used during the transitional years of 1962-1963, some watches would bear an underline, a double Swiss or like the present one an exclamation mark. These signs, that had to be as discrete as possible, would allow customs to see that the dials were safe, or at least less harmful and are now considered the most exciting detail to have on a dial.

    The present reference 1675 is part of the very few examples to display an exclamation mark. Its ultra-attractive black glossy dial gives the watch a rich and deep aspect which contrasts nicely with the red and blue bezel whose colour has started to fade. Presented on a Rolex USA Jubilee bracelet, it is further accompanied by its original box.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 1675 inside caseback further stamped 1.63
A very fine and rare stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with date, black glossy dial, exclamation mark, pointed crown guard, bracelet and box

Circa 1963
39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF15,000 - 25,000 
€14,100-23,500
$15,400-25,700

sold for CHF27,500

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

41 79 637 1724
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XI

Geneva Auction 27 - 28 June 2020