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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1969
    Reference No: 1680 inside case back stamped III.69
    Movement No: D417240
    Case No: 2'215'394
    Model Name: Red Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 380, max length 210mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped A
    Dimensions: 39.5mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex fitted presentation box, punched chronometer certificate, punched guarantee stating the watch was retailed at Orologeria Luigi Verga dated 28 July 1970, Orologeria Luigi Verga Certificate of Origin dated 28 July 1970 and product literature.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name "Red Submariner".

    The present example is fitted with a Mark 2 dial, displaying 'meters first' as opposed to 'feet first'. The 6 is 'open', and the depth rating is very thin. All these attributes are correct for the serial number. The tritium has aged to a beautiful ivory color. The case is is preserved in excellent and sharp condition, featuring strong beveled edges.

    Most impressive is the "complete" nature of this watch. It is accompanied by its original punched guarantee stating the watch was retailed at Orologeria Luigi Verga on 28 July 1970, Orologeria Luigi Verga Certificate of Origin dated 28 July 1970, along with its punched chronometer certificate and fitted presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680 inside case back stamped III.69
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, "meters first" dial, bracelet, presentation box, original guarantee and chronometer certificate

Circa 1969
39.5mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF15,000 - 20,000 
€13,900-18,500
$14,900-19,800

Sold for CHF35,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017