Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1977
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D212'276
    Case No: 5'276'981
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal.1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm, without the divers extension
    Clasp/Buckle: Folding deployant clasp and divers extension
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date. As a tool watch, the majority were made in stainless steel, with the first examples displaying the depth rating in meters first followed by the equivalent in feet. Furthermore, these models featured the name of the model, Submariner, in red leading collectors to nickname the model “Red Submariner”.

    However, the present watch was a little more than just an extremely performing tool watch; it was a wristwatch catering to active people who wanted an extra touch of luxury while performing their favorite sport. Reference 1680 was the first diver's watch Rolex cased in gold. The yellow gold case and bracelet, beautifully enhanced by the deep royal blue of the dial and bezel, added even more extravagance to this already iconic wristwatch.

    With time and sunlight doing their magic, the color of the dial has turned a subtle and intriguing purple with shades of gold. This wonderful dial that could even be described as “fumé”, gives the watch a wonderfully theatrical aspect and even invites the beholder to travel to far and distant tropical islands.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works


Ref. 1680
A rare and very attractive yellow gold diver's wristwatch with date, blue bezel, tropical purple dial and bracelet

39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF25,000 - 50,000 

Sold for CHF38,750

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017