Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: THREE Geneva Saturday, May 14, 2016 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1984
    Reference No: 16753F, inside caseback 16750
    Movement No: O935235
    Case No: 7597119
    Model Name: GMT-Master "Root Beer"
    Material: Stainless steel and yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3075, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel and yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7836, end links stamped 280 overall maximum length 200mm approximately
    Clasp/Buckle: Folding deployant clasp, stamped 3.71
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by original Rolex Guarantee confirming sale of the watch on June 15, 1984, original hangtag, original sales receipt and company literature

  • Catalogue Essay

    The GMT Master was created by Rolex in the second half of the 1950s in collaboration with Pan Am and issued by the airline to its crews on long-haul flights enabling them to read a second time zone on their timepiece.

    The present example for the early 1980s is differentiating itself from its original version with a number of improvements, notably the crown guards and the quick-date set mechanism. The bronze colored dial has never been touched, but displays a fascinating lava red discoloration process around its hour markers, from where its nickname "volcano" dial stems. Another particularity of this watch is the capital "F" added to its 16573 reference number, something we do not recall having seen on another example of this reference.

    Extensive research results in a theory that states that this letter was engraved so that at the Rolex assembly line, the watch makers would know on which cases 14 karat or 18k karat gold bezels had to be mounted. Lastly, the caseback is inscribed "acier inox - stainless steel - registered design", an inscription normally associated to ladies watches of the same period.

    The present lot in steel and gold attire complemented with a fascinating brown dial and caramel and chocolate bezel (also called root beer bezel by collectors) is a flamboyant example of the exuberance of the 1980s. In overall excellent condition with the particularity of having the case back stamped this lot would interest the collector interested in a GMT Master with a twist.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16753F, inside caseback 16750
A very rare and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold wristwatch with so-called "volcano" dial, dual time zone, bracelet, accompanied by guarantee, invoice and hangtag

1984
39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF4,000 - 6,000 
€3,700-5,500
$4,100-6,200

Sold for CHF10,625

Contact Specialist
Nathalie Monbaron
+41 22 317 81 83

The Geneva Watch Auction: THREE

Geneva Auction 15 May 2016