28
Rolex
Ref. 1680
Submariner, "Meters First"
A very rare, early, and well-preserved yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with “meters first” dial, date, and bracelet
Full-Cataloguing
• Early very rare first generation example
• Mark 1 “Meter’s First” Dial
• One of only approximately 100 produced
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function. Soon to follow in 1969, Rolex introduced the first Submariner to be produced in 18K yellow gold. The model would eventually be produced with an option of either a blue dial with blue bezel insert or black dial with black bezel insert, like the present model.
This extremely early and rare example with a 2.1 million case serial number is one of only approximately 100 18K gold Submariners believed to have been produced with a Mark I “meters first” dial. Produced only during 1969/1970, later examples sported a Mark II dial with “feet first” depth rating until the model was discontinued. Furthermore, the dial found on the gold reference 1680 differs from stainless steel examples as it features hour markers playfully known as "nipple indexes" - round applied gold hour indexes with smaller tritium markers.
The present example is offered for the first time at auction. It remains well-preserved, with a stunning black matte dial, black bezel, and luminous hands and hour markers that have aged to a pleasing light brown hue. The watch pairs beautifully with the early and correct 18K yellow gold Oyster bracelet, with "PAT PEND" diver's extension clasp, presenting a coherent design throughout and a wonderful representation of a very early and prestigious Submariner dive watch.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.