8073

Rolex

Ref. 1680

Submariner, “Red Sub” MK I

A rare and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK I dial and bracelet

HK$120,000 - 200,000
€13,200 - 22,000
$15,400 - 25,600
HK$110,000
Lot Details
Rolex
Circa 1969
1680
D368’226
2’129’772, inside caseback stamped “1680” and “II.69”
Submariner, “Red Sub” MK I
Stainless steel
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Stainless steel Rolex folded Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “280”, max length 185mm
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “4.69” "PAT. PEND"
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
- Not only a blueprint for modern dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is an icon that has cultivated a devoted following for every variant and subtle modification since its first iteration appeared in the Rolex catalog in 1953. The Submariner ref. 1680 was launched in 1967, becoming the first of its kind to feature a date function. The addition of the date window sparked a lively debate among watch aficionados that continues to this day.

- As seen on the present timepiece, early dial variations of this reference display a “meters first” depth rating and a single line of red “Submariner” script, leading to its nickname, the “Red Sub”. Deemed a cult favorite among collectors, these rare Submariners with a splash of red represent an important milestone for this sports model.

- Among the seven different iterations of "Red Submariner" dials identified by scholars in the watch community, this example is fitted with a rare and exceptional Mark I "meters first" dial produced between the 2.07 million and approximately 2.20 million serial numbers. It is distinguished by its elongated closed 6's, the distinctive overhanging "f" in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner printed over white. Both the luminous material and the dial have aged beautifully, enhancing its vintage appeal. The lume plots and hands have developed a lovely light creamy hue, while the dial remains untouched and uniform.

- Turning to the bracelet, the present example is stamped “9315” and “280” on the end links, signifying it as the highly sought-after “Patent Pending” variant. Corresponding to this example, the clasps on earlier bracelets are further engraved with inscriptions ranging from “67” to “70,” making them particularly desirable for vintage Rolex collectors.

- The ref. 1680 is a landmark wristwatch for the Rolex brand, and bearing a 2.12 million serial, this beautifully preserved Submariner from circa 1969 is a stunning example.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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