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29

Rolex

Ref. 8171

“Padellone”

An extremely well preserved, highly attractive, and exceptional triple calendar wristwatch with moon phase and Gay Frères Bracelet

Estimate
$250,000 - 500,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1952
Reference No
8171
Movement No
67’157
Case No
820’706
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 10’’’ ½, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Gay Frères Oyster bracelet, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Gay Freres clasp, stamped 4.50
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The Rolex Reference 8171, known as the “Padellone” (Italian for large frying pan) amongst collectors, is one of the most legendary, best proportioned, and consequently sought after vintage wristwatches ever made by any manufacturer. If one were to ask the worldwide community of watch collectors which model, in their view, should be on the all-time top ten list of collectors’ watches, Rolex’s large triple calendar reference 8171, would certainly be most often cited. During the end of the 1940s and into the 1950s, much of Rolex’s design efforts concentrated on tool watches for a new world order, where an increasingly active public demanded precision timekeepers that could withstand the harsh environments they encountered. Rolex’s two full calendar watches – the references 8171 and 6062 - were a departure from the tool watch to a complicated wristwatch for the modern gentleman. These classically styled wristwatches were only in production for a very short period during the early 1950s and both were available in yellow gold, pink gold or stainless steel. The reference 8171 is especially sought after due to its large 38 mm diameter, especially when considering that a large gentleman’s watch in 1950 was around 35mm.

The present example is, in a word, exceptional. First appearing at auction in 2018 when it was consigned by the family of the original owner, it impresses with its incredible state of preservation, remaining hardly ever worn and most certainly, never polished in any way. It retains the harmonious case proportions and sharp edges, crisp facets and angles as originally delivered in 1952. The reference 8171’s case is breathtaking when preserved in close to mint condition, such as the present example, with its engraved case number and Rolex coronet still perfectly crisp and visible on the caseback.

The dial is equally stunning. It’s wonderful, original grainé dial remaining in outstanding condition with minor signs of aging, harmonizing with the case.

Such well-preserved reference 8171 examples are extremely rare. Fitted with a period correct Gay Frères bracelet, it can certainly be considered a trophy watch worthy of a prominent position within a world-class collection.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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