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Rolex

Ref. 6269 inside caseback stamped 6263

Cosmograph Daytona

An opulent, extremely rare, enormously collectible and impressive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with diamond-set bezel, diamond pavé dial, sapphire-set numerals, red khanjar to the back and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman

Estimate
CHF500,000 - 1,000,000
€539,000 - 1,080,000
$628,000 - 1,260,000
CHF1,378,900
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1986
Reference No
6269 inside caseback stamped 6263
Movement No
16'728
Case No
8'969'269, inside caseback stamped with the case number
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18k Yellow gold, diamond and sapphire
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped "71" to the endlinks, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped "J6" (identifying it as made in 1985)
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
Showcasing a bezel set with 44 brilliant diamonds and pavé dial with 240 diamonds, reference 6269 is among the most regal, glamorous and luxurious Cosmograph models ever made. Research shows that Rolex made no more than thirty pieces in total, making it one of the rarest Rolex models ever made. This, combined with its sheer beauty and historical importance, makes it an ultimate trophy for many collectors.

While any example of reference 6269 should rightfully be considered a grail piece, the present fresh-to-the-market example is set above the rest of the production by its back, which bears the Omani royal emblem – the Khanjar – engraved and filled with red enamel.

Indeed, reference 6269 (and its sister reference 6270) was created thanks to the spur of one of Rolex’s most important patrons ever: His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said of Oman (1940-2020). A visionary collector, he is behind some of the most collectible timepieces made by Rolex (and also by other brands). It is speculated that after creating a few pieces of the two models for the Sultan, Rolex also realized a small series – as shown by models sold in locations such as Spain (see Phillips Watch Auction One, lot 149).

This appears to be one of the very few example made on specific request of the Sultan and made their way to the Omani court.

Two other examples of ref. 6269, beyond this discovery, are known to bear a khanjar to the back, albeit potentially none of them features the red version. One example was sold with simple engraved Khanjar in Geneva in 2023 (no. 8'761'105), the other one was sold in Geneva in 2013 (no. 8'397'326).

While today gem-set sports pieces are highly collectible and widely seen, these watches were only brought into the mainstream during the 2000s. In fact, these combinations of watchmaking and gem-setting have been recently rediscovered and are enjoying the popularity they truly deserve. However, only a few decades ago the market for bejewelled timepieces was a very different beast. Prior to that, gem-set sports watches were considered either a special order series, or one-off pieces. During the 1980s, Rolex adorned tool watches with precious gems for its most exclusive and demanding clientele, ranging from Sultans in the Middle East to industry titans. Rolex in particular excels in sourcing and setting gemstones. Alongside references 6269/6270, the brand also developed a ruby, diamond and sapphire-set GMT-Master, known today as the “SARU”.

The concept of merging gemstones with sports watches may seem obvious today, but it was at the time a completely daring and maverick idea. Rolex forever changed the way we perceive and understand a tool watch, paving the way for endless possibilities and developments, such as the “Leopard”, the mythical emerald-set automatic Daytona or the current off-catalogue gem-set pieces.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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