









25
Rolex
Ref. 1680
Submariner Date
A “like-new-old-stock” yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with date, South American President bracelet, and caseback sticker
- Estimate
- $30,000 - 60,000
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1979
- Reference No
- 1680
- Case No
- 5’728’533
- Model Name
- Submariner Date
- Material
- 18K yellow gold
- Calibre
- Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- 18K yellow gold Rolex / D’Agosto President bracelet, max overall length 195mm
- Clasp/Buckle
- 18K yellow gold Rolex hidden deployant clasp, additionally stamped “K18.D’A”
- Dimensions
- 40mm Diameter
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
When you think of spending a lifetime together, the term is usually ascribed to romantic or platonic love, not horological companionship. But this Submariner reference 1680 has been the companion of another since its production in the dying days of the 1970s. A mere 16 case numbers apart from its sister (the previous lot 24), it is more likely than not that both watches were sold to a South American Rolex dealer together, then to the same owner. Both watches are in almost the same physical condition and bear the same distinctive traits that set them apart from even the finest gold Submariners.
Most strikingly, the watches are fitted with 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelets, manufactured in South America using Rolex patented designs. This is evidenced by the D’Agosto hallmark on each clasp, and also the distinctive texture and heft of the bracelets themselves. There are also matching “C” within a square punched to the underside of one lug, a common import mark for the South American market.
The condition on each is some of the crispest and most original we have seen. Sharply defined chamfers adorn crisply downturned lugs, each lug hole precisely drilled with no rubbing. The present lot has the caseback sticker almost entirely still present. A deep, rich pumpkin color has overtaken the original “bicchierini” luminous plots, and the bracelets have minimal stretch and sharp finishing.
Overall, the effect on the wrist individually, and side by side is beyond impressive. It’s rare to get the opportunity to buy one unpolished gold Submariner – it’s nearly impossible to be given the same opportunity twice.
Most strikingly, the watches are fitted with 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelets, manufactured in South America using Rolex patented designs. This is evidenced by the D’Agosto hallmark on each clasp, and also the distinctive texture and heft of the bracelets themselves. There are also matching “C” within a square punched to the underside of one lug, a common import mark for the South American market.
The condition on each is some of the crispest and most original we have seen. Sharply defined chamfers adorn crisply downturned lugs, each lug hole precisely drilled with no rubbing. The present lot has the caseback sticker almost entirely still present. A deep, rich pumpkin color has overtaken the original “bicchierini” luminous plots, and the bracelets have minimal stretch and sharp finishing.
Overall, the effect on the wrist individually, and side by side is beyond impressive. It’s rare to get the opportunity to buy one unpolished gold Submariner – it’s nearly impossible to be given the same opportunity twice.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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