







97
Rolex
Ref. 5517
Submariner “MilSub”
An extremely rare and well-preserved automatic stainless steel military wristwatch with center seconds, made for the British Royal Army
Full-Cataloguing
After their decommissioning, many of these military watches were either destroyed by the MOD or sold to civilians and dealers, with most being modified to remove their military features, transforming them into more “civilian” timepieces. As a result, the present example is an extraordinary find. It remains in exceptional, unrestored, and fully original condition.
This particular watch is especially notable for its rare reference 5517, a model exclusively made for the MOD and widely regarded as the most coveted and sought-after of all Rolex MilSubs. Retaining crisp reference numbers between the lugs and on the caseback, along with its original military engravings, this reference 5517 is a truly exceptional timepiece. The original dial displays a beautiful rich patina on the luminous markers and sword hands, and it features the original “smudge-crown,” a term collectors use to describe the bolder Rolex crown.
Adding to its significance, this specific timepiece is illustrated in John Goldberger's renowned book "100 Superlative Rolex Watches", further cementing its place as a remarkable and historically important example of the Rolex MilSub.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.