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197

Rolex

Ref. 1665

"Double Red" Sea-Dweller

An early, incredibly well preserved, very important and hardly ever seen stainless steel automatic diver's wristwatch with center seconds, date, "Double Red" dial, "Patent Pending" caseback, gas escape valve and bracelet

Estimate
CHF70,000 - 140,000
€75,400 - 151,000
$85,600 - 171,000
CHF152,400
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No
1665
Movement No
413'060
Case No
2’128’298 and 298 stamped to the inside of the caseback
Model Name
"Double Red" Sea-Dweller
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster folded extendable bracelet stamped "285" and "9315" to the endlinks, max length (unextended) 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped "3 69"
Dimensions
40mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The Sea-Dweller is now one of the most appreciated Rolex timepieces, possibly because of its genesis as one of the ultimate tool watches, born out of true necessity and grown to become an iconic piece of watchmaking.The helium escape valve was developed because when working in helium-rich atmospheres, tiny helium molecules would seep through the crystal and rubber gaskets into the watch and create pressure once the diver had surfaced. This would usually result in the crystal popping off. The development of the valve was meant to prevent this issue by letting the gas escape. Today, it is well established that Rolex worked with a number of divers and organizations around the world to aide in the Sea-Dweller's development. For example, the scientists of the American underwater habitat, Tektite, wore such watches in 1969 and 1970, and the same is true for the scientists working the Sealab III project. The name Sea-Dweller itself is a direct nod to the fact that the model had been developed to meet the demands of scientists living - or “dwelling” - under the sea. Following the positive results obtained with these companies, Rolex went on to publicly commercialize the model.

The earliest iterations engraved with “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on their casebacks (such as the present example) are highly sought after. These early models were practically prototypes, and their caseback are stamped to the inside with the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - “298” for the present example.

The overall condition of the watch is superb. The engraving to the back are very well preserved, to the point of even retaining some of the original black filling. The dial is simply breathtaking: devoid of marks or scratches, it showcases strong graphics with vibrant colors and no losses or fading. The star of the show might however be the luminous material, which has aged to a lovely sand tonality, granting the watch an incredible vintage appeal. Boosting such attractiveness with the intellectual appeal of a “Patent Pending” 1665, the present watch will elate any serious Rolex collector.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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