Rolex timepieces have long been used as tool watches by professionals, whether the GMT-Master for dual time keeping, the Cosmograph Daytona for seconds timing or the Submariner for diving. On rare occasions, these watches have been associated with partner companies which used Rolex timepieces for daily work in the field. One of the best known associations was between Rolex and COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) based in Marseilles, France. Rolex exclusively supplied different Submariner and Sea-Dweller models to their specialist divers with most watches marked ‘COMEX’ on the dial and numbered on the case back. They were exclusively reserved for the firm and never available to the public for purchase.

Like many “issued” Rolex watches, the inside case backs of COMEX watches bore the full serial number, or in some instances the last 3 digits, corresponding to the case number found between the lugs at 6 o'clock. The ‘COMEX’ and issue numbers engraved on the casebacks for these timepieces evolved across models, with the present example featuring the word ‘COMEX’ around the rim with the large issue number boldly engraved in the center.
Rolex’s first Submariner wristwatch was released in 1953 with the reference 6204, and has become an iconic wristwatch with many iterations over the decades. Today it remains one of the most sought after tool watches of all times. In 1967, the brand introduced their upgraded reference 1680 the first Submariner with a date function, and in 1979 Rolex released the new 16800 model featuring an upgraded sapphire crystal with a redesigned unidirectional bezel, quick-set date function, and an improved depth rating from 200 meters to 300 meters. The model remained in production until 1988 with early examples like the present watch fitted with a matte dial and luminous indices, while later timepieces featured a glossy finished dial with luminous white gold markers.

The present reference 16800 is amongst the rarest of all COMEX configurations with its sapphire crystal and early matte dial, with approximately two dozen believed to have been issued. Preserved in superb condition, the case retains its factory original bevels and finished surfaces, with the case back’s engraved issue number “6031” crisp. The inside of the case back is engraved with the full serial number found between the lugs. The Rolex COMEX relationship is well documented and this hardly ever seen matte-dial COMEX Submariner ref. 16800 with Rolex international service guarantee is a wonderful opportunity for the discerning collector.