





53
Rolex
Ref. 1680
Submariner "Red Sub"
A very rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, MKII "Red Sub" dial, bracelet, guarantee and box
- Estimate
- CHF40,000 - 80,000€36,400 - 72,800$40,200 - 80,400
CHF56,250
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1969
- Reference No
- 1680
- Movement No
- D503976
- Case No
- 2'292'808, retailer no.: 140'456
- Model Name
- Submariner "Red Sub"
- Material
- Stainless steel
- Calibre
- Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped "501 B" and "93150" to the endlinks, max length 195mm
- Clasp/Buckle
- Stainless steel Rolex extandable deployant clasp stamped "S4" and "93150"
- Dimensions
- 40mm Diameter
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, bottom of the lug engraved with Ricciardi numbers
- Accessories
- Accompanied by Rolex Spanish Guarantee booklet stamped by Argentinian retailer Joyeria Ricciardi SA and dated April 22, 1974 and Rolex and Ricciardi fitted presentation box
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
The term “iconic ” is often overused in watchmaking, but this might possibly be the exception that proves the rule. A true staple of Rolex production, worn by some of the best known public figures - both real and fictional - of the past and present centuries, and immediately recognized as a Rolex also by individuals not even remotely interested in watch collecting, the Submariner has truly and undisputedly acquired the status of “icon” for Rolex and for watchmaking at large.
The present Ricciardi retailed example can be considered one of the most appealing Submariner specimens currently on the market. In excellent condition, it furthermore bears the immediately recognizable “Red Sub” dial (an aesthetic variation currently rediscovered by the brand, and employed on their Sea-Dweller line). It is a Mark II dial, distinguished by the meter first designation (only found on Mark I through Mark III dials), thin long font, and open 6s. This configuration is found on watches bearing serial numbers between circa 2.2 and 2.45: a very short time, which explains why it appears that out of all the 1680 made, only about 6% bear Mark II or Mark III dials (made at the same time).
A final layer of appeal is given by the Ricciardi signed Rolex box and the Ricciardi stamped Guarantee - obviously in Spanish.
The present Ricciardi retailed example can be considered one of the most appealing Submariner specimens currently on the market. In excellent condition, it furthermore bears the immediately recognizable “Red Sub” dial (an aesthetic variation currently rediscovered by the brand, and employed on their Sea-Dweller line). It is a Mark II dial, distinguished by the meter first designation (only found on Mark I through Mark III dials), thin long font, and open 6s. This configuration is found on watches bearing serial numbers between circa 2.2 and 2.45: a very short time, which explains why it appears that out of all the 1680 made, only about 6% bear Mark II or Mark III dials (made at the same time).
A final layer of appeal is given by the Ricciardi signed Rolex box and the Ricciardi stamped Guarantee - obviously in Spanish.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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