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1182

Rolex

Ref. 16520, caseback stamped 16500 to the inside

Cosmograph Daytona

A fine and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Floating Cosmograph” white porcelain dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Estimate
HK$625,000 - 1,250,000
€70,500 - 141,000
$80,100 - 160,000
HK$937,500
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1989
Reference No
16520, caseback stamped 16500 to the inside
Case No
R992'959
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal.4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 503 and 78360 to the endlinks, max length 205 mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped M4 and 78360
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee code-dated June, 1989 and stamped by USA retailer Bailey Banks & Biddle, product literature, factory label, Rolex service card dated May 2016, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
Catalogue Essay
It is unclear why Rolex decided to produce porcelain dials at the end of the 1980s and soon stopped, though an educated guess would involved the difficulty of producing these items. The outcome is that today these pieces are outstandingly difficult to come by. Such scarcity, coupled with the ineffable aesthetic impact of the translucent dial, makes them the most fiercely hunted-down Zenith Daytona timepieces. It is truly once in a blue moon that a porcelain piece in such complete and correct condition as the present one comes to market.

Bearing a R9 serial number and “Floating Cosmograph” dial detailed analysis of the piece fully confirms its absolute correctness, as this breakdown demonstrates:

- Porcelain dials are found in the R serial range, then perfectly correct for this R9 example
- Case with serial between R9 and L24 should bear movements with number between 10’000 and 15’000. The present R99 example bears movement no. 13’651
- The fully brushed bracelet (78360) is correct - a version with polished central links (78390) will be introduced in 1991

When analyzing the guarantee, one can notice that:
- It correctly reads “Rolex Watch U.S.A., INC.” instead of the French wording
- The code R16520A50B7836 fully matches the watch. The first part being obviously the reference, the A50 indicates the white dial (A30 would indicate a black dial), and B7836 denotes the 78360 bracelet
- The stamp W RCTC to the front indicates the USA import month and year, decoded: June, 1989 - also perfectly matching what expected for this watch

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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