An icon among icons — the Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 is always wearing a crown in the horological hall of fame. The idiosyncratic Oyster case, black rotating bezel, and iconic three-hand black dial design with perfectly balanced proportions is for many the singular most desirable wristwatch in the world. This present example from the 1967, with its matte dial and matching hands, clean case and crystal is an eye-popping example of a classic series.

The most remarkable point of the watch is, however, the luminous materials that were applied to the hour markers and hands. In 1964, Rolex began applying tritium luminous material on gilt dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”. The matte dial with a new generation of tritium luminous was introduced in 1967, in which the tritium signings include “T Swiss T<25” or “σ T-Swiss-T σ”. The present example, made with a matte dial in the transitional year, appears to have been applied with the tritium luminous material for gilt dial, ergo reacting strongly under UV light. It is also worth noting that the tritium signing is “Swiss – T<25”. Made in the transitional year, this piece exemplifies Rolex’s never-ending pursuit in perfecting their watches.