First released in 1955, reference 6538 is one of the most desirable Submariner models today, due to its versatility, rarity and good looks. In production for four years only, reference 6538 is instantly recognizable, and characterized by its black lacquer ‘Swiss’ dial, lack of crown guards and 8 millimeter Brevet ‘big’ crown. Some examples, such are the present watch, were chronometer certified, and thus displayed ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ on the dial, in addition to the depth rating. These ‘four liner’ dials are especially rare and sought after today.

Reference 6538 is immortalized on film, having accompanied Sean Connery’s James Bond on multiple secret missions. Bond’s gadget is disguised as a ‘Big Crown’ Submariner, which is equipped with different spying abilities. Reference 6538 is today known as the ‘James Bond Submariner’ in the collecting community.

John Goldberger's Opinion

This ‘Big Crown’ with ROW movement is among the very last produced. The watch sports an original black lacquer ‘Swiss’ dial that has turned subtly ‘tropical’ with age, displaying a chocolate brown color. The graphics are vibrant and the gilt and silver combination is a nice touch. The intact luminous round plots exhibit an orange patina. The luminous index at 6 o’clock is slightly brighter than the rest, which is correct.

The case has been preserved wonderfully and retains its beveled edges. Tool watches were initially considered ‘everyday’ items, rather than ‘precious’ watches. In fact, it was common for their owners to wear and polish them frequently. To find one in such original condition is delightful.