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808

Rolex

Ref. 1680

Submariner

A very rare, attractive and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date, purple ‘tropical’ ‘nipple’ dial and bracelet

Estimate
HK$240,000 - 480,000
$30,000 - 60,000
HK$562,500
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No
1680
Movement No
D485447
Case No
2’816’224
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold<em> Rolex Oyster</em> bracelet, 200 mm. maximum length
Clasp/Buckle
18k gold <em>Rolex </em>twinlock folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40 mm. diameter
Signed
<em>Case, dial and movement signed </em>
Catalogue Essay
Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name ‘Red Submariner.’

Yet, an even more unusual Submariner is one cased in yellow gold. Reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be cased in the precious metal, which provided a fresh, glamorous and luxurious update to the watch most traditionally associated with stainless steel.

John Goldberger's Opinion

This watch is a very cool variant of the yellow gold Submariner, as the dial has ‘turned’ from a blue color, like the bezel, to a wonderful hazy purple color. While one would expect a black colored dial to have a ‘tropical’ effect, it is very surprising when a blue dial also ages over time.

The ‘tropical’ effect can only be achieved when the dial interacts with the sun, causing the pigment to react and ‘turn’. The center of the dial is a lighter purple tone, emanating and growing darker towards the edges, giving the watch a dégradé finish.

The case is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with sharp finishes to the top of the lugs, bevels, and crisp hallmarks to the back of the lugs. The watch is also fitted with the popular 'nipple' dial, with tritium raised markers, which have aged with ivory patina and match the hands. The plexi crystal is furthermore original.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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