

808
Rolex
Ref. 1680
Submariner
A very rare, attractive and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date, purple ‘tropical’ ‘nipple’ dial and bracelet
- Estimate
- HK$240,000 - 480,000$30,000 - 60,000
HK$562,500
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1971
- Reference No
- 1680
- Movement No
- D485447
- Case No
- 2’816’224
- Model Name
- Submariner
- Material
- 18k yellow gold
- Calibre
- Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- 18k yellow gold<em> Rolex Oyster</em> bracelet, 200 mm. maximum length
- Clasp/Buckle
- 18k gold <em>Rolex </em>twinlock folding deployant clasp
- Dimensions
- 40 mm. diameter
- Signed
- <em>Case, dial and movement signed </em>
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name ‘Red Submariner.’
Yet, an even more unusual Submariner is one cased in yellow gold. Reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be cased in the precious metal, which provided a fresh, glamorous and luxurious update to the watch most traditionally associated with stainless steel.
John Goldberger's Opinion
This watch is a very cool variant of the yellow gold Submariner, as the dial has ‘turned’ from a blue color, like the bezel, to a wonderful hazy purple color. While one would expect a black colored dial to have a ‘tropical’ effect, it is very surprising when a blue dial also ages over time.
The ‘tropical’ effect can only be achieved when the dial interacts with the sun, causing the pigment to react and ‘turn’. The center of the dial is a lighter purple tone, emanating and growing darker towards the edges, giving the watch a dégradé finish.
The case is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with sharp finishes to the top of the lugs, bevels, and crisp hallmarks to the back of the lugs. The watch is also fitted with the popular 'nipple' dial, with tritium raised markers, which have aged with ivory patina and match the hands. The plexi crystal is furthermore original.
Yet, an even more unusual Submariner is one cased in yellow gold. Reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be cased in the precious metal, which provided a fresh, glamorous and luxurious update to the watch most traditionally associated with stainless steel.
John Goldberger's Opinion
This watch is a very cool variant of the yellow gold Submariner, as the dial has ‘turned’ from a blue color, like the bezel, to a wonderful hazy purple color. While one would expect a black colored dial to have a ‘tropical’ effect, it is very surprising when a blue dial also ages over time.
The ‘tropical’ effect can only be achieved when the dial interacts with the sun, causing the pigment to react and ‘turn’. The center of the dial is a lighter purple tone, emanating and growing darker towards the edges, giving the watch a dégradé finish.
The case is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with sharp finishes to the top of the lugs, bevels, and crisp hallmarks to the back of the lugs. The watch is also fitted with the popular 'nipple' dial, with tritium raised markers, which have aged with ivory patina and match the hands. The plexi crystal is furthermore original.
Literature
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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