Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Geneva Saturday, November 5, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1990
    Reference No: 3970E
    Movement No: 875'713
    Case No: 2'873'912
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Alligator
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum, PPCo pin buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle stamped
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted box, Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1990 and its subsequent sale on January 17, 1991, setting pin and outer packaging

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was launched in 1986 as a replacement for the iconic reference 2499. While maintaining the signature aesthetics found in both reference 1518 and 2499 the reference 3970 used a Lemania based ebauch as opposed to the previous Valjoux movement. These models also had a leap year and 24 hour indication for the first time.

    The reference was produced in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum across a total of four series with production spanning over 19 years. It is estimated that throughout its course of production over 4,000 examples of the reference were produced.

    First series (1986 – 1988) – Features a snap back case, feuille hands and rectangular indexes. Only produced in yellow gold with an estimated 100 examples produced.

    Second series (1987 – 1990) – Features a solid screw back case “E – Etanche”, feuille hands and baton indexes. Produced in all four case materials with an estimated 450 examples produced across all metals. (The present example)

    Third series (1989 – 1995) – Features a solid screw back case “E – Etanche” with an extra sapphire caseback, baton hands and lapidated indexes. Estimated 1,350 examples produced across all metals.

    Fourth series (1994 – 2004) – Same configuration as the third series however the is a change in serial number ranges in the movement and case and from 1997 onwards it features deployant clasp. Estimated 2,000 examples produced across all four metals.

    The present example is part of the 2nd series with screwed caseback from 1990 making it one of the very last examples from the series before the firm started to offer an extra sapphire caseback marking the dawn of the third series. It is also the 10th platinum example of the 2nd series in platinum known adding an extra element of rarity. to the watch.

    The 2nd series also had the particularity of having 4 hallmarks stamped on each side of the lugs, on the present example these hallmarks are clear and crisp, demonstrating that the watch has never been polished.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 3970E
A highly rare and well preserved platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with presentation box

36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle stamped

CHF80,000 - 160,000 

Sold for CHF214,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East
+41 22 317 81 81

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva
+41 22 317 96 63

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI

Geneva Auction 5 - 6 November 2022