Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Geneva Saturday, November 5, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1984
    Reference No: 3800/5
    Movement No: 1'424'302
    Case No: 2'811'221
    Model Name: Nautilus
    Material: 18K yellow gold and diamonds
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335SC, 29 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold and diamond-set Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 37.5mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming its date of manufacture in 1984 and its subsequent sale on July 16th, 1985.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1981, ref. 3800, featured a reduced diameter of 37.5mm compared to the ref 3700. The reference 3800 also offered greater dial and material configurations. It is estimated by scholars that there were approximately 20 different dial/case variations for the model. The dials where made by the Stern creations and the four "main" options that where commonly seen where dark blue with baton markers, white with baton markers, charcoal grey with Arabic numerals and black with applied roman numerals, there are exceptionally rare dial variations however, such as the present timepiece with yellow-gold dial and diamond-set hour indices. The greater variety further points out at the attempt from Patek Philippe to bring the Nautilus design to a wider audience.

    Another interesting aspect to note from this exceptionally rare 3800 is its date disk. There were two different colors of date discs in use throughout the production: a black disk with white numerals, and a white one with black numerals. Research has shown that black disks with white numerals were exclusively used in very early stages of production. A transition was made around the 90's with white disks and black numerals with the black disks seemingly disappearing from production.

    Just like the reference 3700, we can notice minute evolutions on the dial signatures used by the Manufacture. The first peculiarity to notice is the use, or lack of, an accent above the second “E” in “GENEVE”. Scholarship has noticed that there have been fewer examples with the accent, like the present timepiece, intrinsically rendering the timepiece rarer, with the majority of production not having one. Another peculiarity to notice is the thickness of the font that has changed from lighter in earlier production series to thicker in later production examples.

    To finally conclude and reiterate the rarity of the present timepiece one has to simply look at the dial carefully. Placed at 6 o'clock is the elusive "Asprey" signature of which only two are known. The first one being a ref. 3800/1 cased in a regular yellow gold case, and the second one being this very example, ref.3800/5, with 3 rows of diamonds on the bezel and three rows on the centre links.

    Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present timepiece truly embodies the meaning of the word "rare" - its allure, charm and compact size make the present timepiece an excellent companion that can be dressed up or down, and can accompany you during the night for special occasions or for your day to day, making this an occasion that the most discerning and forward-looking collector will unlikely miss out on.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

    View More Works


Ref. 3800/5
A rare and charming yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch with date, center seconds and diamond-set bracelet, retailed by Asprey

37.5mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

CHF80,000 - 160,000 

Sold for CHF126,000

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East
+41 22 317 81 81

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva
+41 22 317 96 63

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI

Geneva Auction 5 - 6 November 2022