An elegant and attractive white gold limited edition automatic wristwatch with center seconds, annual calendar, 24-hour indication, inverted moonphases, black luminous dial with Breguet numerals, commemorative engraved back, certificate and box

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 2012
    Reference No: 5396G
    Movement No: 5'702'975
    Case No: 4'584'319
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 324S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe seal
    Bracelet/Strap: Alligator
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, dial further signed Tiffany & Co.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by New York retailer Tiffany & Co. and dated December 10, 2012, setting pin, numbered sale tag, numbered envelope, leather wallet, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2012 and its subsequent sale on October 18, 2012.

  • Catalogue Essay

    When Patek Philippe launched (and patented) its annual calendar mechanism in 1996, it filled a market void which, surprisingly, had remained ignored literally for centuries by the entire industry. Up to then, the calendar options for a wristwatch skipped from the relatively simple triple calendar to the ultra complicated perpetual calendar. There was no middle ground until Patek Philippe released its one-correction-per-year innovation.

    While originally housed in timepieces with a three-subcounter dial architecture (beginning with ref. 5035), its modular construction allowed it to be employed in a variety of other styles, such as the sporty Nautilus chronograph reference 5980, and the present reference 5396, launched in 2006, ten years after the introduction of the complication.

    Reference 5396, in its standard configuration, is a superbly formal Patek Philippe model, heavily borrowing from past classics: the case is obviously Calatrava inspired, most obviously from references 570 and 530. The dial as well closely reminds of iconic reference 3448 (and its evolution ref. 3450): two windows at twelve and moonphases at 6 encircled by a ring. The main difference is that ref. 3448 features a date ring, while reference 5396 features a 24-hour ring (and the date is present in a window at 6). Also, the presence of the center seconds is a modern innovation.

    The connection between Patek Philippe and Tiffany goes back to the mid 1800s. This is why a commemorative piece was released for the 5 years anniversary of the New York Patek Philippe boutique in Tiffany. Without the preexisting relationship, it would be unthinkable for Patek Philippe to release a commemorative model after such a short time, making this instance possibly the “youngest” anniversary commemorated by a bespoken model.

    Realized in 100 examples only, an extremely small output for a modern limited edition - especially one dedicated to such a large market as the United States, it was available exclusively at Tiffany, either at the New York boutique or in few other selected locations.

    When looking at the aesthetics of the watch, one can not avoid marveling at how remarkable the vibe of the timepiece has changed after the modification of some crucial details: the pitch black dial is the perfect background for the Breguet numerals. The feuille hands are throwback to the vintage heritage of the brand, but their classicality is counterbalanced but the presence of the luminous material which not only grants them a very sporty look, but also dramatically enhances readability. Finally, the upside down moonphases window allows for the Tiffany signature to mirror the location of the Geneve designation.

    The final result is a classic with an edge, a model which merges heritage traits ingrained with much more sporty and aggressive details. At launch, it was widely acclaimed by Patek Philippe collectors in the USA and abroad. Most notably, celebrated singer and collector John Mayer is a well known aficionado of this model and wrote an extremely insightful in-depth review of it on horological website Hodinkee.

    The present watch is arguably one of the very last sealed examples of the model. It was acquired in 2013 from the original owner by the current owner, an important European collector, granting this watch the added bonus of being a 2-owner piece with absolutely transparent history. An unmissable opportunity for the collector of rare timepieces.

  • Maker Bio

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 5396G
An elegant and attractive white gold limited edition automatic wristwatch with center seconds, annual calendar, 24-hour indication, inverted moonphases, black luminous dial with Breguet numerals, commemorative engraved back, certificate and box

2012
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, dial further signed Tiffany & Co.

Estimate
CHF60,000 - 120,000 
€55,300-111,000
$60,400-121,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Specialist, Head of Sale
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

Double Signed: A Celebration of the Finest Partnerships Between Manufacturers and Retailers

Geneva Auction 9 November 2019