Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII Geneva Friday, November 3, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1954
    Reference No: 1593
    Movement No: 976'121
    Case No: 2'602'956
    Model Name: "Hour Glass"
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 9'''90, 18 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Associated 18K white gold textured bracelet, max length 175mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold clasp
    Dimensions: 41mm Length, 25mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed by maker, dial and case further signed by retailer
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with diamond hour markers in 1954 and its subsequent sale on June 30 1958.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe’s reference 1593 is a wonderful expression of post-war exuberance. Introduced in 1944, the oversized-for-the-time rectangular case has a bold clean design heralding the mid-century change in design aesthetics - now favouring elaborate case designs. Its inwardly flared profile is reminiscent of one of the earliest timekeepers known to mankind and responsible for its nickname: Hour Glass. The casemaker responsible for the project was Patek Philippe’s specialist for shape cases: C. Markowski - identified by the Poinçon de Maître no. 8 inside a key (as for all Geneva-base casemakers). The flamboyancy of the case extends to the crystal itself: it features a highly unusual curved design culminating in a subtle edge. Such detail is in fact reprised on the dial as it is actually made of two different pieces joined precisely in the middle of the watch, exactly below the edge of the crystal.

    Today, the reference 1593 is a classic amongst collectors, coveted for its large size and elegant refinement. The majority of examples were made in yellow gold with fewer in pink gold. Platinum-cased examples like the present lot are the rarest and most exclusive versions, fitted with a silver dial with hard enamel print and diamond-set hour markers. Not only the present example is a representative of the rarest case material, but it is furthermore offered in exceptional condition of both case and dial. Most notably, the case is in our opinion most likely unpolished and features the original finishing. If this were not enough, the hallowed Caracas-based retailer Serpico y Laino’s signature is present on the dial as is its stamp - perfectly crisp - on the caseback, making this watch a “perfect storm” for the collector of highly rare and unusual timepieces.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

    View More Works


Ref. 1593
An extremely rare, elegant and collectible platinum wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, flared bands, diamond hour markers and white gold textured bracelet, retailed by Serpico y Laino

41mm Length, 25mm Width
Case, dial and movement signed by maker, dial and case further signed by retailer

CHF40,000 - 80,000 

Sold for CHF95,250

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88


The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII

Geneva Auction 3 - 4 November 2023