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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 2004
    Reference No: 3990
    Movement No: 3'047'086
    Case No: 4'252'688
    Material: Platinum and diamonds
    Calibre: Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Alligator
    Dimensions: 36mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by fitted presentation box, Certificate of Origin dated 13 February 2004 confirming production of the present watch with black dial and diamond hour numerals, and 40 baguette diamonds totaling 2.77 carats, additional numbered case back, setting pin, product literature and leather wallet. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in platinum with semi-glossy black dial, 1 baguette-cut diamond index, 10 diamond hour markers and 40 baguette-cut diamonds totaling approximately 2.77 carats in 2004 and its subsequent sale on 29 January 2004.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In production from approximately 1995 to 2005, reference 3990 is virtually identical to the celebrated reference 3970E, with the addition of a diamond-set bezel and matching luxurious dial. The model is Patek Philippe's first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to feature a diamond-set bezel, setting the design codes for its successor reference 5971. Reference 3990 was cased in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and more exclusively, in platinum. Like its sibling reference 3970, it was fitted with a Lemania-based movement.

    The reference hardly ever appears on the market, having been produced in exceedingly low numbers. According to research, the present watch is previously unknown to the auction market, and the fifth example cased in platinum to appear in the public eye.

    The present example, cased in platinum, features diamond-set numerals and a baguette diamond bezel, totaling 2.77 carats in total. The semi-glossy dial is black, and contrasts wonderfully against the diamond markers and lustrous white tones of the platinum case. Luminous hands furthermore give the watch an incredibly modern appearance that collectors and scholars love - a feature that is often requested, but not necessarily granted, on modern Patek Philippe special order watches today.

    Most stunning is the overall condition of the watch. Featuring sharp case proportions, crisp hallmarks, and incredible "fluting" to the lugs, the watch is preserved in near pristine condition. It is furthermore enhanced by its Certificate of Origin, additional platinum numbered case back, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet and fitted presentation box, making for a very complete and original set.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Σ154

Ref. 3990
A highly rare and extremely attractive platinum and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, additional case back, setting pin, fitted presentation box and original certificate

2004
36mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF200,000 - 300,000 
€185,000-278,000
$198,000-297,000

Sold for CHF250,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017