1125Σ︎
Patek Philippe
Ref. 3990P-011, Possibly Unique
A possibly unique, fresh-to-the-market and highly attractive platinum and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial, diamond-set indexes, moon phases, 24-hour, leap year indication, additional solid caseback, setting pin and Certificate of Origin
Full-Cataloguing
- Fresh to the auction market
- Of only 17 examples known of the ref. 3990, this is the only one known in platinum with salmon dial
- In stunning overall condition with crisp hallmarks and case proportions
- Certificate of Origin confirms the “rose” dial
A watch of exceptional rarity and considerable importance, the present Patek Philippe ref. 3990P-011 stands as one of the most elusive expressions of the manufacture's celebrated perpetual calendar chronograph lineage – a platinum ref. 3990 distinguished by a rose dial with diamond-set indexes and baguette diamond bezel. Fresh-to-the-market, this previously unknown example of an already exceptionally rare reference is possibly the only one made by Patek Philippe.
In production from approximately 1995 to 2005, ref. 3990 is virtually identical to the revered ref. 3970E, distinguished only by the addition of a diamond-set bezel and correspondingly luxurious diamond-set indexes. In this, it holds a singular place within Patek Philippe's oeuvre: it was the manufacture's first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to feature a diamond-set bezel, establishing the design codes that would inform its successor ref. 5971. Like its sibling ref. 3970, it is powered by a Lemania-based movement, a calibre of proven architecture and enduring regard among collectors and scholars alike.
The ref. 3990 are known to be encased in yellow gold, pink gold, and white gold, yet it is in platinum that the model achieves its most exclusive expression, a metal reserved by Patek Philippe for its most important and rarefied creations. The reference scarcely appears on the market, having been produced in exceedingly low numbers. According to research, only 16 examples of ref. 3990 are known, making the present previously unknown example only the 17th one to appear publicly.
The present example, cased in platinum, features diamond-set indexes and a baguette diamond bezel. What truly stands out is the distinguished sunburst “rose” dial that provides a lustrous and elegant contrast against the diamond markers and the understated white tones of the platinum case. It is without a doubt that such a dial may have been requested but seldom granted on contemporary Patek Philippe special-order watches, and one that collectors and scholars admire for its rarity and mystery.
Ref. 3990 with salmon dial known:
3990R-011, Movement No. 3'045'786, Case No. 4'010'821, Circa 2000
3990R-011, Movement No. 3’046’785, Case No. 4’197’929, Circa 2000
3990P-011, Movement No. 3’048’459, Case No. 4’261’619, Circa 2006 (Present example)
Ref. 3970 with salmon dial known:
Only a few movement numbers apart from the present example is a ref. 3970 (movement number 3'048'463) with salmon dial and Breguet numerals.
Another example is the prominent Eric Clapton ref. 3970 with Breguet numerals at 12 o’clock and special salmon tachymeter dial (movement number 3'049'137).
Most compelling, however, is the overall condition of the watch. Featuring sharp case proportions, crisp hallmarks, and remarkable lugs, the watch is preserved in exceptional overall condition – a state of preservation that speaks to a life of extraordinary care and minimal wear. It is further accompanied by its Certificate of Origin confirming the “rose” dial, additional solid caseback, setting pin and leather portfolio with photograph of the present watch.
This stunning and well-preserved ref. 3990P-011 represents a rare and compelling opportunity for the discerning collector to acquire a platinum perpetual calendar chronograph of the utmost rarity – the only one known and first time offered publicly at auction.
Patek Philippe
Swiss | 1839Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.