Whereas the 1518 in stainless steel is considered the endgame in the field of horological collecting a very close contender is its “pink on pink” sibling.

When Patek Philippe released the reference 1518 in 1941 at the annual Swiss Watch Fair in Basel, they introduced a milestone wristwatch that today is considered one of the most important watches of the 20th century. The reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced by any brand in series, and set the course for Patek Philippe’s dominance in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking. So ahead of its time was its design, Patek Philippe continued to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for a long line of highly sought after successor models including the references 2499, 3970, 5970 and today’s 5270.

Scholarship suggests that Patek Philippe produced approximately 281 examples, with the majority in yellow gold, exceedingly rare examples in pink gold, and only four known examples in steel (see lot 23)

Reference 1518s cased in pink gold were either fitted with a silvered dial and in rare instances with a pink dial. Some 15 examples of the 1518 with this mythical “pink on pink” dial combination are known, making it one of the rarest and most exclusive complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches for a collector to acquire.

When introduced during the turmoil of World War II, the reference 1518’s design aesthetic was a new and modern look with clean lines, elegant proportions, and extended, curved lugs. The case, manufactured by Emile Vichet S. A. for Patek Philippe, evolved over the course of its 14 year history. Patek’s exquisitely finished, manually-wound caliber 13’’’130 Q is housed inside.

The case fully preserves its architecture, without a hint of the tapering of the lugs so often seen in this reference. The hallmark to the band is still easily discernible and the one behind the lug is deep and crisp. The dial is absolutely unrestored and without a trace of cosmetic enhancement, and yet the engraved/enamel graphics are practically flawless, without fading or losses whatsoever and the salmon tonality of the dial is remarkably intense. The back of the dial bears - as expected - the movement number of the watch (twice) confirming the timepiece was born with the dial.

In fact, when analysing the known pink-on-pink 1518s, an intriguing fact can be observed. The three case numbers prior to the present 646’599 (596, 597 and 598) and the one after it (600) are all pink gold 1518s, and all of them feature salmon dials as well. This indicates that this dial variation was executed in batches, albeit very small (of probably 6 watches per batch, and obviously at least 5).

The iconic 1518 has always been considered a stellar timepiece, but in recent times its monumental collectibility and importance has being truly understood and its status as Ultimate Grail unarguably recognised by the collector’s community. This example offers an exceptionally rare opportunity for the most serious wristwatch collectors to posses a true legend of watchmaking, ticking all the boxes with its impressive provenance, stunning “pink on pink” configuration and absolutely unrestored condition.