90

Movado

Ref. 95 704 568

Sub-Sea

A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and bracelet

$7,000 - 14,000
$30,000
Lot Details
Movado
Circa 1966
95 704 568
1918
Sub-Sea
Stainless steel
Manual, cal. C 95 M, 17 jewels
Stainless steel Movado bracelet, max length 195mm
Stainless steel deployant clasp
35mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Catalogue Essay
Founded in 1881 in La Chaux de Fonds, Movado established its reputation as a high quality movement manufacturer, designing, testing and assembling their own movements under one roof. Following World War II, only a handful of brands were capable of producing in-house movements, with most brands purchasing ébauches and finishing them to their specifications.

Movado’s Sub-Sea model was the brand’s water resistant chronograph wristwatch, using their C 95 M chronograph caliber and a Taubert & Fils-made case. Taubert was a respected case maker specializing in water-resistant cases - supplying them to some of Switzerland’s most prestigious brands. Taubert & Fils cases are found on many well-known stainless steel models, including Patek Philippe’s reference 1463 chronograph and the time-only reference 565. Though Taubert & Fils purchased François Borgel’s case-making company in 1924, it is interesting to note the firm never changed their maker’s mark, and today Taubert & Fils-supplied cases still feature the “FB” hallmark.

The present watch is in superb condition, with a well-preserved case and bracelet showing little signs of wear. This is reinforced by the sharp lugs and crisp lines observed throughout the case. Later Movado Sub-Seas would become increasingly bolder and sportier, to adjust to the evolving aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s, but the current example combines the best of the early-mid century with later masculine elements. The eggshell white dial contrasts beautifully with the robin’s egg blue of the tachymeter dial - still vibrant after over half a century of existence.