Kiu Tai Yu (1946-2020) is a watchmaker of many firsts. Amicably known as “Mr Tourbillon” by friends of the industry, he was the first watchmaker in Asia to build a tourbillon wristwatch following the debut the Kiu Tai Yu Tourbillon No. 1 in 1991, a mechanism that was regarded as the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking. He was also the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a Swiss association dedicated to promoting art of independent watchmaking, joining the league of George Daniels, François-Paul Journe and Philippe Dufour as one of their earliest "Créateur Indépendent".
Kiu is most revered for his unique construction of the “mystery tourbillon” which appeared to rotate without the support of either a tourbillon cage or bridge. This was made possible by a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge, while reducing the cage of the tourbillon to a fish-shaped platform underneath the balance wheel. It stunned the horological world when it was Introduced in 1993, and it later received patents in China, United States and Switzerland. Recognised worldwide for his artistic talent and technical prowess, he was the first Chinese watchmaker in the modern era to gain an international audience. In Kiu’s words, “I have my place in history, and that's the most important achievement.” Kiu Tai Yu’s timepieces embody his unwavering dedication to take watchmaking to the next level, representing a pioneering feat from a Chinese independent watchmaker that marks an important chapter in the history of watchmaking.
Sticking to his roots, Kiu’s watches fully encapsulates his Chinese cultural heritage. His works are distinguished by the use of smooth sensual shapes, iconic pagoda-shaped cases and signature enamelled details. Meticulously made by hand, Kiu’s designs are created in extremely small quantities, rendering each piece a rare collectible. Only a handful of Kiu’s timepieces have ever appeared in auction, including a white gold prototype Year of the Rooster Commemoration that was first offered at Only Watch in 2005. Phillips has the honour to offer the tremendously well-received Millenium “唯吾知足” (meaning Fulfilled and Content) reference 22 at the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI in 2023, likely the first example to surface since 2015.
In the late 1990’s, Kiu put his beloved tourbillons aside and diverted his attention to watches without complications. He presented the platinum “The Joy of the Millenium” in 1999, identified by its large gold sight balance bridge and the off-center time display. The rectangular-shaped New Millennium is another automatic time-only wristwatch created in 2000. The present Year of the Rooster Commemoration is a more accessible time-only wristwatch made for the Year of the Rooster in 2005. Numbered 1 out of a limited edition of 50 pieces, the present watch belongs to one of the annual limited editions with a Chinese zodiac theme. The zodiac editions are cased in either pink or white gold, and come with a black or white dial each with a different zodiac sign.
The dial of the present watch features a stylised rooster emblem, as well as five different types of indexes, including numerals in four different scripts plus batons for the quarters. Arabic and Roman numerals occupy half the dial, along with Chinese characters representing one, two, seven and eight o’clock. Kiu’s family name “矯”, is positioned in a red circle at 12 o’clock, while his first name, “大羽”, in a box at six o’clock. His Romanised name proudly adorns the case band at the 9 o’clock and the rotor at the back in his signature red enamel work. The pink gold case is equally iconic with the stepped bezel and elongated downturned lugs characterised by a beautiful scroll motif also in red enamel.
Turning the watch over, the sapphire caseback invites its wearer to admire the automatic movement of the watch, which is based on the robust ETA calibre 2836-2 that was launched in 1982, boasting up to 40 hours of power reserve. Offered in excellent overall condition, and accompanied with a Kiu Tai Yu fitted presentation box, this very rare and highly collectible timepiece is so much more than just a watch, but a unique work of art inspired by traditional Chinese culture and architecture, and a precious historical artefact representative of an important era. As we celebrate Kiu’s legacy as one of the most important Asian independent watchmakers of this generation, it is hoped that his creative spirit to insist on his own unique aesthetics and the finest craftsmanship will live on for the many generations to come.