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143

Irving Penn

Kate Moss, New York

Estimate
$70,000 - 90,000
Lot Details
Platinum palladium print, printed 1997.
1996
16 3/4 x 16 5/8 in. (42.5 x 42.2 cm)
Signed, titled, dated, numbered 7/16 in pencil and 'Condé Nast' copyright credit reproduction limitation stamp on reverse of the flush-mount.
Catalogue Essay
The renowned 18th-century Italian sculptor Antonio Canova, celebrated by his peers as “the supreme minister of beauty”, once mused, “I have read that the ancients, when they produced a sound, used to modulate it, heightening and lowering its pitch without departing from the rules of harmony. So must the artist do in working at the nude.” Accordingly, Canova’s marble female nudes are noted for their Neoclassical features—soft contours, ample curves and graceful lines. Neoclassical painters from the early 1800s, most notably Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres and Jacques-Louis David, likewise accentuated the curvaceous form of their female subjects, eschewing full frontality in favor of a playful side view that allowed for the prominent yet elegant positioning of the model’s hips and buttocks. By doing so, the artists allowed their subjects to demurely return the gaze of the viewers, aware of their nudity but retaining some level of modesty.

Irving Penn’s nudes of supermodels in the 1990s, be it of Gisele Bündchen, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Amber Valetta, or as seen in the current lot, millennial favorite Kate Moss, was the culmination of a lifetime’s dedication to studying the female form. While Penn’s nudes from the late 1940s are cropped abstractions of voluptuous female models, his nudes from the 1990s are notably Neoclassical. In the current lot, Moss is seen with her back turned to the camera but twisting her torso enough to engage the viewers. Penn’s soft lighting accentuates her tender skin and her rounded hips, imbuing the fashion icon with a sculptural quality that far transcends the era in which the photograph was taken.

Irving Penn

American | B. 1917 D. 2009
Irving Penn was one of the 20th century’s most significant photographers, known for his arresting images, technical mastery, and quiet intensity. Though he gained widespread acclaim as a leading Vogue photographer for over sixty years, Penn remained a private figure devoted to his craft. Trained under legendary art director Alexey Brodovitch in Philadelphia, he began his career assisting at Harper’s Bazaar before joining Vogue in 1943, where editor and artist Alexander Liberman recognized Penn’s distinctive eye and encouraged him to pursue photography. Penn’s incomparably elegant fashion studies reset the standard for the magazine world, and his portraits, still lifes, and nude studies broke new ground. His 1960 book Moments Preserved redefined the photographic monograph with its dynamic layout and high-quality reproductions. In 1964, Penn began printing in platinum and palladium, reviving this 19th-century process to serve his own distinct vision. An innovator in every sense, Penn’s approach to photography was endlessly adventurous. Few photographers of his generation experimented as widely with both conventional and historic print processes, and none achieved Penn’s level of excellence in all.
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