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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Heuer
    Year: Circa 1955
    Reference No: 2443
    Case No: 950’239
    Model Name: Seafarer
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, Valjoux 721, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel
    Dimensions: 38mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement signed Abercrombie & Fitch Co.; movement stamped AXF

  • Catalogue Essay

    Capturing the sporting essence of the consignor, this exceedingly rare Abercrombie & Fitch chronograph made by Heuer is fittingly called the “Seafarer”, and it is thematically foundational to the “Ride the Wave” collection.

    Forget what you know about the current Abercrombie & Fitch brand. In the 1950s, Abercrombie served the needs of the modern sportsman: golf, swimming, fishing, hiking, tennis, sailing, wakeboarding, and more – any accessory one would need to lead an active lifestyle could be found in the enticingly illustrated pages of their summer catalogues. The company reached out to Heuer to create watches for them beginning in the 1940s, and a young Jack Heuer apprenticed at Abercrombie & Fitch in their New York City department store. He even later assisted in the development of the Solunar and the Seafarer models, puzzling out the problem of modifying a movement to reflect the tides for the Solunar, and then later incorporating a chronograph upon the commercial failure of the Solunar.

    The present example of the Seafarer reference 2443 is what Heuer scholars have termed the “second execution”, with triangle hour markers outlined in gilt and filled with aqua-colored luminous paint, and Arabic numerals 1, 5, 7, 11, and 12 only. This exceptional example of the second execution 2443 is in unspoiled condition, with sharp facets to the lugs and sides of the case, and the vivid colors of the dial are original and remarkable in their preservation. The teal-colored, luminous hour markers are perfectly preserved, and the etching of the case number between the lugs is as crisp as if it were engraved yesterday. A spectacular example of the reference, very few of these Seafarers have ever surfaced publicly, and even fewer in this exemplary state of preservation. This watch comes from the remarkable and discerning collection of a seafarer in both spirit and practice.

  • Artist Biography

    Heuer

    Swiss • 1860

    This iconic chronograph manufacturer has a long tradition of precision timekeeping. As early as 1882, founder Edouard Heuer held a patent for a chronograph watch; in 1887, he received a patent for an oscillating pinion, which is still in use today. These specialized timepieces have been at the heart of the firm's success, enabling the brand to be chosen as early timekeepers for the Olympics. In 1969, the company introduced their first automatic chronograph watch, the Monaco Heuer, which celebrated the Monaco Grand Prix. Other key chronograph models include the Autavia and the Carrera, all of which having become iconic models of the firm.

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Ref. 2443
A highly rare and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal indication and regatta countdown, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

Circa 1955
38mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement signed Abercrombie & Fitch Co.; movement stamped AXF

Estimate
$15,000 - 25,000 
CHF14,000-23,300
€13,400-22,300
HK$117,000-195,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros

Head of Watches, Americas

+1 (212) 940-1293

[email protected]

 

The 2021 New York Watch Auction

New York Auction 11 - 12 December 2021